by Asa Bennett

As an hors d'œuvre for our next issue’s Total History piece on political dining around London, we present a review of The Gay Hussar, an establishment deeply affiliated with Labour and all sorts of left-wing figures, including Aneurin Bevan, Barbara Castle, Ian Mikardo, T.S Eliot and Michael Foot.

This Hungarian restaurant, located on Soho’s Greek Street, has barely changed since its 1953 opening, unlike the surrounding neighbourhood. Resting comfortably among the fashionable clubs, boutiques, and smart eateries that now litter the area is this distinguished and antiquated place, offering sumptuous, filling food with a dash of flair.

As we entered through the old wooden doors, the quiet intimate atmosphere in the small building, lending itself well to the many plots that were said to have been hatched at these tables, was a welcome contrast to the hustle and bustle of a Thursday night’s Soho outside. Since we were unfamiliar with Hungarian cuisine, the waiter was on hand to guide us through the extensive menu (full of "Magyar" delicacies).

The first course, a chilled wild cherry soup was a culinary mystery. It was surprisingly sweet, offset by a mild bitter taste and a sharp citrus twang. The cherry on the cake, or in this case, in the soup, was succulent and complimented the sweet cream with which it was mixed.

As a main course, we opted for a delicious roast duck with red cabbage, caraway potatoes and apple sauce. However the catfish we ordered, despite its paprika spice, was underwhelming, but it was saved by the artfully made cheese and bacon pasta accompaniment.

For dessert, we eschewed any of the foodstuffs and instead chose to sample some of the Hungarian Pálinka; the liqueur’s strong kick was offset by the mild apricot taste and provided a suitable end, in the true spirit of Hungarian cuisine, to the exquisite meal.

As a dining experience, The Gay Hussar (taking its name from a minor character in Gilbert and Sullivan’s "The Chieftain") may not be ultimately the best restaurant but it certainly ranks among London’s better dining options.